The Deep Symbolism Behind Bebek Songkem: A Madurese Culinary Tradition

TheIndonesia.co - During my teenage years, I lived just a stone's throw from Madura Island, which is easily accessible via ferry from Surabaya's Tanjung Perak Harbour or by car across the Suramadu Bridge. Madura, a rugged and arid island, has always fascinated me—whether it’s their distinct language or, more notably, their food.

One such dish is Bebek Songkem, a traditional Madurese delicacy. In my native language, "songkem" is pronounced as "sungkem," a term that carries a deep cultural meaning. It's a respectful gesture performed by younger people towards their elders—parents, grandparents, uncles, aunts, and even neighbours who are older than us.

So, how is this gesture performed? It’s simple yet meaningful: we place both hands together in a prayer-like fashion, bring them to our chest, and bow forward as a sign of respect. Depending on the closeness of the relationship, the elder might reciprocate with a similar gesture or, in a more personal setting, place a hand on our shoulder or head, or even embrace us in a hug.

At one point, I found myself wondering: Does the name “Bebek Songkem” have any connection to this gesture of respect and politeness?

It turns out, it does! After years of pondering, I learned from a traditional Madurese cook that Bebek Songkem is closely tied to this cultural practice. She explained that bebek songkem—the duck dish—is often given as a gift, particularly when visiting someone who has imparted wisdom, such as a religious teacher or a Quran instructor. The cooked duck is a symbol of gratitude, representing the gesture of sungkeman or placing one’s palms together in respect.

The way the duck is prepared reflects this gesture: the feet of the duck are tied together, mimicking the "sungkem" posture. This symbolism is deeply embedded in the cooking tradition.

According to an article on Indonesia Kaya, the history of bebek songkem dates back to visits by parents to religious figures and teachers. To express their gratitude, parents would prepare something special—often a duck—tied in a respectful manner. The duck would be seasoned with simple spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed for hours, creating a comforting, flavourful dish to enjoy with steamed rice, shared in an atmosphere of warmth and gratitude.

The preparation itself is surprisingly simple. As content creator King Abdi, a contestant from Master Chef Indonesia Season 10, explained in a TikTok video, Bebek Songkem made with simple ingredients: red and green chili padi, salt, sugar, and belacan powder. There’s no garlic or onion involved. The chilies are ground into a paste and marinated into the duck, and inside the cavity. The seasoned duck is then placed on banana leaves, wrapped up, and tied with string or plastic bands. It’s steamed for one to two hours, resulting in a dish that is not only flavourful but also healthier, since it’s not fried in oil.

As King Abdi put it, Bebek Songkem could very well be the healthiest version of duck in Madura.